How to ride a motorcycle to Mexico and Central America at age 65

Sextagenarian Rides Motorcycle from Maine to Central America...Twice    

 

                                                        Hierve Del Agua, Mexico

                                                                  I wonder…all the time.
                                                              How did I get to this place.

How did I get to this moment.

I took this photo at a church outside of Guanajuato, Mexico.  Looking at the Baroque exteriors of the churches in Mexico I often think about the atrocities that paid for their construction.  Then, as I came around the corner of the church I found this beatific man.  I saw in this holy man’s face, a face that exudes peace.  It was then that I realized that Mexico's turbulent history must have brought out some of the best in humanity as well as some of the worst. 

Here’s what I’m thinking: how do I get the most out of what’s left.  What’s left of my days?  What’s left of the money I’ve never had. What's left of the world that is fast leaving me in the dust?  Questions, asked on the road.

I've spent  a part f the last three years riding my motorcycle through Mexico and Guatemala.  On a bike there is a feeling that you are part of what is going on.  Enclosed in a car, a plane, bus or train one is removed and safe. On a motorcycle you are not safe.  You are exposed and because you are exposed you get to feel your surroundings.  You feel the dirt and the grime of the road.  Every turn in a new city brings on a new experience.  Every corner in the mountains of Oaxaca brought me to life.  A ride from Guadalajara to San Patricio on the Pacific Coast was so filled with exquisite terrors that I can easily re-live most of the day's experiences.  There was a time my rear tire hit sand just as I was rounding a turn.  I had just enough time to see that I was on a cliff and could not see the bottom of the ravine a foot to my right.  An unannounced detour took me on a three hour delay.  This caused me to arrive in the dark.  Arriving in a new town on a motorcycle is something I always try to avoid.  I found my reserved hotel and had a memorable stay despite the tribulation of getting there.  I followed some good advice and took a more reliable route home to Tlaquepaque where I was staying for the month.

On the way to Oaxaca

Hostels

My first trip was to Mexico.  I celebrated my 60th birthday at a hostel in Oaxaca.  The staff there were great.  They brought me a cupcake for breakfast with a candle in it. I think the place is closed now.  Staying in hostels is usually a good idea.  It depends on your attitude.  Yes, it is usually a group of young people but the idea of the "youth hostel" is long past.  Today you will most likely find older adults staying at hostels.  This makes for a great stay at a great price and there is often a kind of camaraderie that can't be beat that builds around the residents of a hostel.   Information is shared independent of age.  Often there is a kitchen which can save money.  Be aware that many hostel rooms are mixed sexes.  If you are uncomfortable with that make sure you find one with single sex dorms.  Most the hostels are very comfortable.  There is always something going on.  It can be a great experience.  I have never had a terrible experience at a hostel.  Of course some are better than others but most of the time you will not be staying long in a hostel.  So you can always move on if it's not comfortable.

Border Crossings

Entering Guatemala

Border crossings can be pretty exciting.  Or dreadfully dull depending on how you see it.  The main takeaway I can share is to be prepared with as much paperwork as you think you should have. I spent hours figuring this out.  In Mexico they want a copy of your license, registration and title.  Of course your passport is a must.  In Mexico it is recommended that you get insurance.  I have never been asked for my proof of insurance.  However, I never wanted to test this out so I bought it.  Make sure you look carefully at what you are getting.  I get the basic of basic insurance.  They will always try to sell you more than you need.  Let's face it, if you end up in an accident in Mexico you will be the loser no matter what.  A $300,000 policy won't do you much more than the $50,000 policy in my opinion.  The companies actually try to hide the fact there is a $50,000 policy available.  You have to look for it.  Now of course a visit to the hospital is not a good thing and may be costly.  The insurance they are selling is for liability only.   Mexico has a reputation for good medical services.  I have never needed it, knock on wood!  I think this decision is up to the individual.  There is an importation deposit which is value dependent.  My bikes are old so I paid $200.  You can get this back once you re-cross the border leaving Mexico.  You must go back to the "bank" called Banjercito to collect your deposit.   I did this with a credit card to protect myself.  Just make sure you do it before you leave the country.

Guatemala didn't require insurance as far as I could tell.  Crossing into Guatemala is a real event.  Hawkers try to assist you in every way possible.  You can do it without help!   I got help because I liked the guy.  I paid him about $7.  I brought copies with me but they would not take them.  I had to go to a bodega and have them made.  I know this is a racket but sometimes I go with the flow just to ease the process.  the paperwork is the same as Mexico. I had color copies they insisted on black and white.  I will never know why.  I think the copy guy has a little racket going. 

The Roads

In general the roads are fairly good.  I do remember my first introduction to a road that did not fit the description.  It was the road from Matemoros (Brownsville) to the ruins of El Tajin.  It is a two lane road that is incredibly busy because it is the main thoroughfare along the gulf coast going north/south.  Trucks, buses, mopeds and a few horses take this route to wherever they're going.  The main rule is that there are no rules.  This is understood and accepted.  It works after you get the feel of it. The shoulder is the road.  Pass when you can.  Watch out for animals.  Watch out for anything and anyone appearing from any direction.  Signs are at your own risk.  Directions are approximate at best.  This seems daunting, and it is, but somehow it works.  Often there are road blocks with guys with machine guns.  Nod as you go through and they leave you alone unless they want to look at your bike.  Some are pretty serious, especially the Federales.  Local police seem like they are not really interested in a lone biker.  They have other things on their mind.  

Potholes are big enough for you and the motorcycle to disappear in.  I don’t like to use GPS.  It makes no sense I know.  However, I was not brought up with GPS nor computers for that matter.  I guess it feels like cheating for me.  Ridiculous For sure but I do like doing things the old way with a map.  Yes this gets me into trouble more often than not but I feel more accomplished when I get to my destination.

Outside the ruins of Tikal, Guatemala

This picture shows the rewards of travel by motorcycle.  Bringing your bike right to a great campsite is one of the best feelings in the world.  In this case the campground is right outside of one of the most spectacular ruins in the Mayan world, Tikal.

The Bike

I see a lot of adds for motorcycle touring.  Youtube is filled with advice.  Very few talk about one of the biggest problems I faced riding in the south.  This is the eventual occurance of the bike falling over.  My first bike was the Kawasaki Concours pictured above.  This was a heavy bike and when it laid down it was really hard to pick up.  It happened once while I was stopped at a turn off looking out over the mountains in central Mexico.  I  don't know how it happened..it just did.  That time I was able to put it back up but really messed my back up.  The second time it happened was in Guatemala.  I had run into a roadblock on a mountain pass heading from Lake Atitlan towards Antigua.  The road was very twisty and steep.  As I came around a corner a truck was coming down the other way.   I got slow and the bike just when down.  I had just filled the tank so it was really top heavy.  The problem was twofold.  One, I was on a steep hill. Second it was laying on it's right side.  The kickstand is on the left side. I wasn't sure what would happen once I got it upright.  Here's the thing, for me to hoist it up takes all my strength.  On  the left side there is a hand hold for putting the bike on the kickstand.  This gives me the leverage I need to right the bike.  On a steep incline on the right side I had nowhere to get purchase while holding the brake lever.  

This is when I received help from a Guatemalan guy who just blew away all the stereotypes we hear in the media.  This guy stopped.  Helped me with the bike and got me safely to the other side of the road and to safety.  Five minutes later, as I was putting things back together he returned.  He wanted to make sure I was alright and to tell me of a easier road to take to get me to Antigua. The road he told me about is still one of my most treasured memories because it took me through some amazing sights; small villages, beautiful farmland and some interesting towns.  I am still so thankful to that unknown Guatemalan who really saved my backside that day.

So, my advice to anyone, specifically people who are "age resplendent"  is to find a light bike.  There is absolutely no need for speeds above 80 mph.  In truth 70 is a good max speed.  In most cases any motorcycle will be able to pass on a steep hill which is when you need it.  Smaller motorcycles are  easier to weave in and out of traffic when the time calls for it.  Lighter bikes will take cobblestoned streets a little easier too.  There have been too many times that I have been caught on a steep cobblestoned street on a steep hill hoping against hope that I didn't blow a clutch at a stop.  Do not get me wrong I love my BMW R1100RSL and I felt the same way about the Kawasaki.  However, if I were to do it again it would be on lighter bike.  I am six foot 3 and 250 pounds.  I love what my big bike can do on the highway.  If highway driving was all I needed to do I'd be all set.  When I go south again it'll be on a 650 or something similar.   

I have my current short list of bikes that  would be great.  I suppose the Suzuki V-Strom 650 is a top contender.  The BMW 650 or 750 is right up there.  The Yamaha Tenere is so popular you can't get one so that's out of the question.  The Honda 500 might be the best overall because, after all, it is a Honda.  I try to maintain my bikes so I usually do not have to many maintenance issues. But that Japanese  reliability is a real plus when it comes to visiting out of the way locations.  I have played with idea of the Honda 300 and the Kawasaki klx 300.  I have a friend with one and he certainly gets around on it.  Great gas mileage and lightweight, as I get older and somewhat wiser this looks better and better.  Last but certainly not least is the good old KLR.  This is what you see the most of down south of the border being ridden by adventurers.  You can't blame them.  Chain driven, carburated, single cylinder with easy to find parts is a recipe for a completed trip.  The thing is any bike will do.  I just think the lighter the better.

I am in the mood to publish this blog as it is.  There is more to say about my motorcycling but fo now this is what I've got and I want to get it out and into the ether.

My motorcycling trips to the south have been some of the best days of my life.  I would suggest anyone with a sense of wonder and adventure try it.  You do not have to ride from Maine...renting is always available.  I just always pictured myself leaving from my driveway and ending up at a Mayan ruin.  When I first realized how little we are taught about the Maya and how incredible their society must have been and that it was possible to reach their fantastic cities from my backyard taking my bike was, to me, the way to go.

Tikal