Larache

 Larache, Morocco

1/15/24

I visited Larache Morocco because I read there were Roman ruins nearby.  The bike ride from Asilah to Larache was straightforward albeit an easy grade uphill for most of it.  I passed through beautiful countryside and small villages.  The routes continue to be strewn with the litter from a world habituated to the use of plastic.  It is difficult to say this but the situation is worse here than it is in Mexico.  It becomes disheartening after awhile. 

Lixus looking toward Larache

I left at sunrise and arrived earlier than expected to Lixus.  Lixus was a Roman city built on a rocky hill  overlooking a winding river.  It is a naturally defensible spot and is in complete control of the river.  The river has silted in over the millenia but there is no questioning its placement as a fine place to build.  According to the history I have read it was first exploited by the Phoenicians and then continually by Romans until the Empire began its collapse in the 4th century.  After that successive people came to build on the promontory closer to the sea where Larache now stands as a fishing port and busy city.  The fort built by the Portuguese is in decay with huge visible cracks in its walls.  This is a strong symbol of the decay of the old European colonialism and how today’s Moroccans must feel about it.  There appears to be no attempt to protect it from collapse.

Decay of  Imperialism

Route Nationale 1 runs straight down the center of the city and ends at the Spanish “square” which is a circle surrounded by Spanish architecture.  The small Medina is right behind the North side of the square.

I am staying in my first Riad in Larache.  According to the affable owner it was the oldest building in the town.  He took me and Tim, a young Swiss biker staying at the Riad, up to the rooftop terrace where he talked about growing up in the town as a young kid.  He spoke of how, after a rain storm, he could find ancient Roman and Phoenician coins which he would sell for a Dirham for candy.  What those coins would be worth today I can only imagine.

I had been really concerned about putting my bike on the bus to transport it.  So I took a trip down to the “Gare Routiere” (bus terminal) to verify.  There are several bus lines.  The CTM line is more “online” than the others.  On CTM one can reserve a seat. CTM is not expensive but is more so than the other lines available.  So for $6 (plus $2 for the bike) I took a local bus to Meknes.  Meknes is the farthest  south I will travel.  I will bike around from the beautiful Riad I am staying in.  I will depart from here to Chefchouen in a couple of days.