March in Marseille

Allauch, France

March 10, 2024

The sun is brilliant this morning.  It is Sunday, a day to enjoy some of my final days here in the south of France.  I am no longer traveling. I feel now as if I am living here.  I have settled into a kind of regime.  I work on my photographs, writing and learning how to draw.  At noon there is a meeting then I walk up the hills or bike.  I have my neighborhood boulangerie, the tabac where I buy my public transport ticket for the day and my favorite supermarket are all a short walk away.  There is a small farmers market right near my home on Saturdays.  My walks are really the highlight of my day.  As I round a corner I see the village and the chateau on the cliffs above me.

The chateau is from the 12th century and little of it exists save the foundation of some round towers, a gatehouse, some walls and the church of Notre Dame.  Walking a little further the windmills appear on their perch above the town. I pass by the ecole maternelle and hear children playing in their courtyard.  My supermarket, the “carrefour”, is in a small group of buildings with a bank, a restaurant and a flower shop.  As I make my way around the traffic circle cars fly by and I realize that this is still the suburb of Marseille and the city is not far away.  I carefully cross at the pedestrian crosswalk and to my amazement the cars stop for me.  Only occasionally do they blow by me.  Most often they stop.  Here, the pedestrian seems to have the right of way.  The only place I know of this to be the case back home is in Camden. My path steepens now as I get closer to the village.  I have several choices as I approach.  I can continue on the main street that directs cars up the steep hill or find alternatives which climb steeply but are far  more enjoyable.  I take stone staircases and eventually pass by the cemetery

and continue on up to the chateau and spend a few moments watching men play Pétanque.  I can also take another route bringing me straight up to the village which sits like all medieval villages directly below the chateau.  Most of the homes are of the same pink sandstone color with orange tile roofs.  I pass by a small bank, a souvenir shop, the Mairie, and the church.  I try to follow a different path up the hill but I have done the trip enough times that I know each turn.  Climbing up the steep path there are Provençal trees attaching themselves to the rocky soil.  There are Cypress, Pines and Olive trees.  Cactus and Aloe grab on as well.  I was fortunate enough to be here when several trees that looked like dogwoods were in bloom.  Eventually I arrive at the summit and am never underwhelmed at the vista that meets me.  All of Marseille spreads itself out in front of me.  The islands off the coast and the Chateau D’if are clearly outlined.  The. Old port is visible as is the beautiful hill of Notre Dame de la Gard.  The modern high rises down nearer the new port are outlined by the sky blue water and the cliffs on the further shore of the bay.  I have a short climb left which takes me to the top of the hill.  The remnants of the castle walls are a reminder that people have been living here for ages.  I take a last look and take my alternative route back down the back side of the hill.  This is very steep and rocky.  Some of the stones roll making this path more difficult.  I do like the challenge.  I get to the bottom and start my new route home.  Each day a different but familiar path.  Each day is unique and yet familiar.  It is always enjoyable.  It always changes with the weather but remains the same in its beauty.  I have had the chance to imagine history and the people who laid each stone of the chateau and the stories that the place has seen. I head home stopping at the supermarket for a baguette and some Camembert.